Your Ultimate Guide to Skiing the Powder Highway (the right way)

 

Situated deep in the heart of British Columbia Canada, the Powder Highway remains the ultimate road trip route for the true snow lover.  Whether on skis or a board, those who begin this world class pilgrimage of pow soon find themselves rewarded with deep snow in alpine bowls, steep chutes, playful glades and breathtaking views… (That’s when you’re not in a cloud of “Kootenay Coldsmoke powder”).  Shred all day, but save some energy for when you’re off the hill.  By night, adventurers experience an après vibe unlike any other, sharing stories over craft beer in authentic mountain towns.  The Powder Highway is a place to discover hidden gems you’ve never heard of, and won’t soon forget.  Sound too good to be true? Just as any epic journey can be filled with unforgettable moments, the locals know that this route through the Canadian Rockies requires inside knowledge and some well planned logistics to make it a vacation of a lifetime and not a frustrating foray into frosty misadventure.

Enjoying the waist deep snow near Revelstoke BC. Jonathan Paar Photo @jonathan.paar

Enjoying the waist deep snow near Revelstoke BC. Jonathan Paar Photo @jonathan.paar



What is the Powder Highway?

The Powder Highways is a collection of resorts, cat and heli ski operators, backcountry lodges and beautiful mountain towns all connected by road.  Offering arguably some of the best skiing or riding in North America, the Powder Highway is to skiing what Indonesia is to surfing; a guaranteed destination to score the best lines of your life. Beyond just the ski resorts, the number and quality of cat skiing operations in the area is simply unmatched anywhere else on the planet with 15 cat ski and 11 heli ski operators.  What Does the Canada Powder Highway Map Look like? What Ski Resorts Do You Visit on the Powder Highway?


Tour the Powder Highway: Ben M Westerik Photo

Tour the Powder Highway: Ben M Westerik Photo

The Powder Highway carves a line through the breathtaking Purcells, Selkirks, Monashees and Rocky Mountains.  The gatekeepers of these legendary slopes dwell in the ski towns that punctuate the route making the trip as much a foray into mountain town culture as it is about world class snow.  Names like Revelstoke and Nelson have now become legend, while Fernie, Rossland, Golden, Kimberly and Invermere still hold many undiscovered secrets.

There are a few ways to connect the dots of the Powder Highway, But if you want to get warmed up, the next two resorts offer a good starting point.     

Kimberly

In the middle of the map you’ll find few lift lines and even fewer tracks at Kimberly Alpine Resort.  This is a nice spot to find your legs and get used to some tree skiing before tracking the legendary resorts you’ll come to later on in the trip.  

Panorama

Panorama Mountain Resort offers uncrowded groomers to open up and get moving before heading to the summit and dropping in to one of the many gladed runs.  This resort has almost three thousand acres of skiable terrain to explore. Head South for the legendary powder belt of Southern BC.  Although not part of the Powder Highway, we recommend making a stop over in Alberta while in the region to visit the hidden gem of Castle Mountain Resort.  With a cowboy culture, and nonstop vertical runs through untracked snow, this place rewards those willing to step off the beaten path.  The Red Chair often doesn’t open until avalanche control finishes late in the morning, so ride up the T-Bar and traverse as far to skier's right as you can within the boundary.  You’ll ski fresh tracks all morning.  Seriously though, don’t overlook this place! 

Fernie Alpine Resort

Traveling Westward from Castle Mountain along the South border of British Columbia you’ll first discover Fernie Alpine Resort, known for its massive storm cycles.  If the conditions permit, after a few warm up runs, head to the top of the new Polar Peak chair at 7000ft and ride some epic alpine before exploring the expansive tree skiing terrain below.  Don’t be surprised if you score a day of waist deep snow while riding one of it’s six huge alpine bowls.  You can ride all day within the ski area and never do the same run twice as you work from one side of the mountain to the other, checking off one sweet run after another.  Make your way over to Siberia bowl if you’re searching for sneaky fresh lines.

RED Mountain Resort

Originally developed by the miners who lived and worked in the area, some consider RED to be the birthplace of skiing in the Kootenays.  The rolling granite hills that give this place its shapes allow you to fill a run with more drops and steep features than you can count.  Head up Grey chair if you want long fall line skiing with more moderate open glades.  After a few runs there, head over for a fresh pow lap on the snowcat at Mount Kirkup.  This is the only cat ski operator that offers single runs to add a cat lap your day at the resort! A definite ‘must do’ if you’re at RED.

Whitewater Ski Resort

The location for segments in the biggest ski and snowboard movies of the year, the mountains around Whitewater Ski Resort provide pillow lines, steep tree skiing and playful terrain which plain and simply does not exist in such a volume anywhere else on the planet.  Tucked under the iconic Ymir peak, and home to the Kootenay Coldsmoke Powder Festival, Whitewater is the epitome of the Kootenay Rockies experience. Locals here shred with an effortless style that can only be developed by dropping pillow lines and launching steep powder lines from an early age. Don’t be surprised when you see a train of kids under the age of ten all backflipping down the “The Blast” and spending as much time in the air as they do with their skis in the pow. Ask a local how to access the “Trash Glades” where a five-minute hike rewards you with guaranteed fresh pillow lines even late in the afternoon on a pow day.  This playground needs to be experienced.

Blasting through pillows above Whitewater Resort. Ben M Westerik Photo

Blasting through pillows above Whitewater Resort. Ben M Westerik Photo

Revelstoke Resort

After the magical pillow lines of the Kootenays, you’ll turn Northward passing world famous cat ski and heli ski lodges, hot springs, and pristine lakes en route to Revelstoke Mountain Resort.  Ride the gondola high into the alpine to access big mountain terrain and perfectly gladed runs which drop hundreds of vertical feet transforming into glades of huge trees and innumerable perfectly sized drops.  The “Conifers of Gnarnia” are just one of these incredible runs that live up to the mythological name.  Be sure to grab a burger slopeside from the Mackenzie Outpost in the spring and sit outside to take in the view from above across to the Monashee mountains.  

After Revelstoke, take the Trans Canada highway back to the East towards Golden British Columbia and Kicking Horse Mountain Resort.  Heads up though... If it’s puking snow, be prepared to spend an extra night in Revelstoke as the tall peaks of Rogers Pass often block the highway to Golden with avalanche debris giving the town a nickname of “Revel-stuck”.

Mountain Movements team member taking to the blue skies on a pow day at Revelestoke Mountain Resort while on a Powder Highway tour. Jonathan Paar Photo.

Mountain Movements team member taking to the blue skies on a pow day at Revelestoke Mountain Resort while on a Powder Highway tour. Jonathan Paar Photo.

Kicking Horse Mountain Resort

At Kicking Horse, start your day by grabbing a coffee on the hill at the Double Black cafe to enjoy as you ride the gondola up into the alpine.  With 4133 vertical feet of terrain below, you’ll be stoked to be awake and ready to shred.  For the true shredder, we recommend hiking up to “Ozone” to ride terrain featured on the Freeride World Tour.

Terminator peak is also an adrenaline filled descent for those up to the challenge.  In either of these zones we recommend connecting with a local to show you the lines in order to avoid any accidental giant cliff drops.  Ski through the normal lunch hour and take an early or late break on top of the mountain at the Eagle’s Eye Restaurant.  The Duck Poutine and Caesar cocktail are two Canadian favourites that the chefs here execute perfectly every time.  Continuing to the East, you’ll head into Alberta and leave the Powder Highway towards the resorts of Banff and Lake Louise.  Fly back home out of Calgary which is only an hour from Banff.

Mountain Movements Guests hiking across to ride ‘Ozone’ at Kicking Horse Mountain Resort.

Mountain Movements Guests hiking across to ride ‘Ozone’ at Kicking Horse Mountain Resort.

The Best Way to Travel the Powder Highway

Go with a tour.  Van life road tripping can be a blast with a surfboard on a warm coast, but the mountains of British Columbia in the winter are best enjoyed with someone else warming up the van every morning.  There are a number of benefits that come with a good quality packaged tour.

The choice to use an experienced company that offers on hill hosting or guiding ensures you get the most out of each day on the slopes.  Many of the resorts in this region have large areas all labeled on trail maps as a single run or zone.  Unless you’re riding only groomers, It can take years to discover all the secret stashes and rad lines hidden within these resorts.  Save yourself the trouble of sweating like mad while you unstrap or side step out of a gully that you thought would lead to pow but instead turned to a flat bushy creek bed.  Go with a pro and ride great terrain all day long.

There are some amazing B&B’s and lodges to stay at along the powder highway, but if you want to book them you’ll have to get on it ASAP.  The best accommodations book up well in advance of the season and often require a large group to be affordable.  If you want to avoid boring hotels, you’ll need to find five or ten of your closest friends and get it set up now.

Traveling through the mountains along this legendary route can be a beautiful journey as a passenger without the stress of winter roads, navigation and marathon hikes across ski hill parking lots.  A comfortable tour van lets you relax and enjoy the ride after a long day of shredding without any of the stress of driving a vehicle.  Plus, it’s a safe way to enjoy a few après pints at the hill before heading into town.

Tour operators are a great resource to have by your side day and night in each new town when figuring out where to find the best craft beer scene or which restaurants to make a reservation at.  A premium tour operator should have a good relationship with a number of breweries and restaurants and will set up unexpected surprises like private beer tastings or a chef to bbq a lunch in a private cabin hillside.  Many of these details are added to trips which have been honed over multiple seasons and won’t be experienced by the regular tourist.  Beyond the obvious practical benefits, a quality group tour connects you with other like minded travelers to shred with by day then share stories at night as you laugh about the highlights of the day in the hot tub.  

The Wrong Ways to Travel the Powder highway

Powder Highway Bus

For a region with world class terrain, cat-skiing operators, alpine ski resorts and mountain towns the infrastructure certainly hasn’t kept up.  Although great for preserving the powder and keeping the lift lines to a minimum, the distance and lack of well defined tourist routes make it expensive and often frustrating for the individual traveler.  Contrary to popular belief there’s no real bus service or rail route to connect this trip on your own.  A few of the resorts offer limited scheduled service between town and the hills, however if you’re hoping to travel to all the resorts you want, you’ll need another transportation plan.

Powder Highway RV rental

The rental RV option is another plan that sounds great on paper but can be a big headache in real life.  The amazing snow that makes the region so much fun on skis can make the roads quite an endeavor, with stuck RV’s blocking resort roads a common sight.  Expensive on gas and lacking the luxuries of boutique lodges and hotels; renting an RV is a poor choice for both value and enjoyment factor.

Powder Highway road trip

For some people, the idea of a package tour just isn’t their cup of tea no matter how luxurious, convenient, economical or relaxing.  For these folks, a rental vehicle is the only practical option to travel the Powder Highway.  If you do decide to rent a car, make sure it is equipped with quality winter tires.  This is an extra cost, but an absolutely essential upgrade for your safety.  It is almost guaranteed that after a week of traveling in the winter, you’ll see a rental car in the ditch or worse due to improper tires. Secondly, you will absolutely want to pay for the windshield insurance.  With gravel on the highways, chips are inevitable and most rental companies charge you hundreds for replacement upon return with even one chip unless you opted for the insurance. 

Are There Any Powder Highway Hotsprings to Stop At?

British Columbia is home to beautiful natural and developed hot springs which should definitely be added to any itinerary.  We recommend checking out the Halcyon hot springs for a more refined feel if you’re traveling between Revelstoke and Nelson, Halcyon if you’re staying in Nelson or the Lucier hot springs for a natural experience while traveling around Invermere or Kimberly.

Book a scenic flight out of Nelson to see the Valhalla mountains and nearby glaciers or stop in for a relaxing spa treatment at the Aurora spa in the historic Hume Hotel in Nelson.  Revelstoke and Golden both have snowmobile tour operators who offer the opportunity to get out sledding in incredible terrain.  If you’re looking to ski or board in the backcountry, Mountain Movements can get you set up with experienced local mountain guides to ski tour and split board a wide range of terrain from the Kootenays to Rogers Pass.  

Relaxing in the Halcyon Hot Springs en route to Revelstoke Mountain Resort.

Relaxing in the Halcyon Hot Springs en route to Revelstoke Mountain Resort.

 And Most Importantly… What About Powder Highway Beers? Are There Any Breweries to Visit?

If you’re a beer lover or enjoy craft spirits then you’ll be a happy camper discovering one great beer after another all along the Powder Highway.  There are too many breweries to list but here’s just a few from each town that we visit.

In Fernie, just outside of town check out the Fernie Brewing Co.  The First Trax Brown ale is a favorite after a long day of pow skiing.  While driving between Fernie and Rossland or Nelson you’ll pass the often overlooked but exceptional brewery named Fisher Peak Brewing in Cranbrook.  You should definitely make a stop here and taste what new small batch they have going, or try the award winning Hell Roaring Scottish Ale.

Further west after riding at RED mountain, drop down into town and visit the Rossland Beer Co.  Get here early in the evening as the small brewery gets crowded to capacity early in the night.  Order the Seven Summits Milk Stout.

Up to Nelson and you’ll be overwhelmed at the number of options for great food and drinks.  Cocktail bars abound and there are 3 full sized breweries which all pump out great beer.  Head into the tiny tasting room tucked in a historic building at Nelson Brewing Company to try beers that aren’t on tap anywhere else.

A rainbow of flavour at Whitetooth Brewing Co. in Golden BC.

A rainbow of flavour at Whitetooth Brewing Co. in Golden BC.

Owned in part by a former ski instructor, Backroads Brewery is the newcomer to the scene here but is usually packed to the rafters after a good pow day. Torchlight in town is also worth a visit with a wide selection of tasty beers.

Drive north to Revelstoke and you’ll need to stop in at Mt. Begbie Brewing.  Named after the iconic mountain that dominates the skyline of the town, the team here consistently produces perfect beer.  The High Country Kolsch is a refreshing and smooth pint that can be enjoyed here or on tap up at the hill.  Pro tip: Order a “Stoke Pitcher” when up at the hill to get the local’s discount on a jug of beer at Revelstoke Mountain Resort.  If you’re in the mood for something other than beer, drop by Monashee Spirits and taste some unique local cocktails.

Finish up your tasting tour of B.C. when you reach Golden by a tasting flight at Whitetooth Brewing.  Try the Blower Pow IPA named after the snow you’re going to be skiing the next day at Kicking Horse Mountain Resort.  If all of this beer tasting sounds like a great addition to a week of skiing, you’re right.  Join Mountain Movements for our Taps n’ Tracks package tour which combines the best skiing and breweries all along the Powder Highway. 

The Powder Highway Snow Forecast. When’s the Best Time to Go?

The season starts in December and runs until mid April.  If you’re looking to explore all the alpine terrain that the mountains have to offer, it’s ideal to wait until after New Years to guarantee most runs are open.  In the Rockies, it takes a bit for the alpine terrain to get filled in.  Down in the Kootenays, some of the more challenging gladed runs have huge timber on the ground in summer which take a few metres of snow to be transformed into a pillow poppin’ playground.  January is usually the coldest month so pack warm gear and you can avoid lineups on the colder days.  If you’ve only got one week and are flexible on dates, then February can be unreal and is often the best for big pow days.

At Mountain Movements, we’ve planned our trips to land on the best snow times of the year.  With the snow, brings the crowds however, and this part of the season can be busy.  Hire a local in order to avoid the hectic groomed runs and find the secret stashes of powder.  Either arrive super early or hire a driver to drop you right at the lodge to avoid hiking across kilometres of parking lots.  For sunshine and patio beers at the hills, March offers on hill music events, locals rippin’ around in costumes, and all around good springtime après vibes.

Dropping bombs in the Monashees near Revelstoke BC. Ben M Westerik Photo

Dropping bombs in the Monashees near Revelstoke BC. Ben M Westerik Photo

Why British Columbia is Such a Popular Destination for Skiers and Snowboarders Around the World

Watch a few segments from the latest and greatest snowboard or ski film and you’ll see the mountains of British Columbia showcased front and center as a playground for the best in the world.  Japan gets heaps of snow, but doesn’t have the terrain.  Europe has some incredible topography, but lacks the snowfall.  British Columbia has both of these elements bundled with the best steep tree skiing on the planet.  Whitewater ski resort alone gets over 12m or 40 ft of snow annually.  Besides the snow, Canadians are renowned for their friendliness and the mountain towns in which they live poses a truly unique, warm and authentic culture unlike anywhere on the planet.

The definition of “Face Shot”. Jonathan Paar Photo. @jonathan.paar

The definition of “Face Shot”. Jonathan Paar Photo. @jonathan.paar

Why Choose Mountain Movements for Your Powder Highway Tour?

To be honest, there are a number of fun ways to experience the mountains British Columbia.  An all inclusive week at a heli skiing or cat skiing operation will most likely have great snow and excellent food if you can afford it, but you certainly won’t experience the diversity of terrain and mountain culture that you get from a road-trip-style adventure.

Rent a car to go it on your own, and you’ll surely stumble into some unexpected adventure, but not without your fair share of crowded parking lot hikes, underwhelming hotel experiences, missed runs and wasted time waiting in line for lift tickets. 

A high quality curated trip from Mountain Movements ensures you get the most out of each day.  Let our local guides show you the best runs and snow stashes on the hill by day and safely drive you to authentic après experiences by night.  We reserve beautiful chalets and accommodation before the season to ensure every night is comfortable and worry free.

Browse our tours to see what a dream vacation with us looks like and contact us if you have any questions, we’re always happy to share the stoke!